What’s going on

Not much, actually. I get up in the morning, bring my kid to school, try to squeeze the maximum value per minute out of the 3 hours of hands-free time this gets me, lose time surfing the Web, bring the boy back home at noon, throw together some sort of meal or another, try to do things while entertaining the kid until he falls asleep, see my husband off to or back from work, volunteer at the local library once a week, shop for groceries, do laundry… and knit when the stars align. Pretty uneventful but that’s how life is. Sometimes there’s a surprise: eating out with the extended family or the kid falling ill on a Friday afternoon… And then it’s routine once again. But it’s not the repetitiveness that gets me down: I kind of like my days to be predictable. If I can fit a healthy amount of fun into an ordinary day, I’m totally OK with it.

november-mini

See what I mean? Who needs fancy entertainment if they can have this?

What truly gets on my nerves is that I receive no answer from the knitting magazines, yarn companies and design editors I wrote to what seems like ages ago. Just a word, huh, guys? Something beyond the machine-generated “Thank you for your submission”? Are you that busy? What’s maddening about all this magazine business is that one has to wait for months before an answer comes – and not necessarily a positive one – and that multiple submissions (that is, sending the same pattern to several magazines simultaneously) are strictly discouraged. And in the meantime your patterns and ideas just lie there and you can’t even wear what you’ve knitted – for fear of spoiling the only prototype you have… It’s sooo slow! In a world where one can connect with people instantly and where everyone is on-line 24/7, the knit mag business is somehow managing to stay light years behind – and get away with it.

Which makes me think that it’s maybe time for me to go indie. I believe in my patterns: Liffey has scored 138 projects on Ravelry alone and, as I have discovered, it has been translated into Russian, so you can double, if not triple, the count (the funny part about this unauthorized translation is that I’m myself a Russian speaker, so they could just have asked if had a Russian version of the pattern instead of going the hard way). Anyway, what I’m saying is that my patterns aren’t that bad. In fact, I think they’re getting better all the time (you should see the one I’m working on right now!) and I’m doing my best to make them both knitable and knit-worthy. So… shall I make the leap?

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Free pattern: Dry Land Sailor

Summer is coming – at least, elsewhere, it is – so I thought some of you might already be dreaming about the hot sand and the rustle of the waves… And if, like myself, you have to wait for a while before heading southwards, why not do it with knitting needles in your hands? Nothing is more soothing to a knitter’s longing heart than an easy top pattern with a prospect of wearing the result of your work for that much dreamed of walk on the beach… Now, I know it’s not good to praise oneself but I do think that this one is a pretty clever pattern! It practically knits itself: once you get the hang of the pattern, it’ll be off your needles in no time.

To begin with, a little history; This pattern was first published in the Yarnwise (former Knit!) Magazine in July 2012 under the name “Zigzag tunic”. I prefer to keep the original name though: “Dry Land Sailor” is way more meaningful than a mere statement of the evident fact that the garment in question is a tunic with a zigzag pattern… But what’s been done, has been done. The pattern has made it to the cover of Issue One, so I guess I must be happy and shut up. But if you, dear readers, have the impression that I’m being a little grumpy, let me assure you: it’s not an impression, I am grumpy! Dear Editor of the aforementioned magazine, you can probably guess why. But I’d better not develop this issue here…

And now – to the pattern!

P1070028

My sample never came back so this is the only picture I have…

Get the pdf here!

The pictures from the magazine are under copyright so I cannot use them unless the photographer gives her permission. You can see the tunic here and here.

Good knitting!

Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 3.0 Unported License.

Little Cupcake Newborn Hat

Baby hats… What makes them so cute? Well, BABIES, of course!

I have designed this newborn hat to give to fellow mums at the maternity. It is very easy to knit and it’s a great stash-buster! I suppose there are scores of similar patterns on the Web but if you know someone who’d be happy to receive one, do give it a try! Make a couple (and why not a dozen?) of these cute little hats for a newborn support program or a charity sale, give them out and get happy smiles in return!

Source: Wikipedia

You will need:

Any aran weight yarn (10 ply/ 8 wpi), about 30 g per hat

A set of 3.5 mm and 4 mm double-pointed needles

A crochet hook or a blunt needle to weave in yarn ends

5 stitch markers (optional but helpful)

A pompom maker (optional)

Abbreviations:

R – round

st – stitch

k – knit

k tbl – knit through the back loop

p – purl

sl 1 wyib – slip 1 stitch from the left to the right needle without knitting it, holding yarn in the back of the work

sl 1, k1, psso – slip 1 stitch from the left to the right needle as if to knit, knit the following stitch, pass the slipped stitch over

Knitting instructions:

Holding two 3.5 mm needles together, CO 60 sts. Distribute the stitches onto 3.5 mm needles, join taking care not to twist. Mark the beginning of the round.

The Cup (ribbing):

Knit 8 rounds as follows: *k1 tbl, p1*, repeat around.

The Cake:

Switch to 4 mm needles

R9: k all.

R10: p all.

R11-13: k all.

R14: p all.

RR15-26: repeat RR 11-14 (all in all, you’ll have 5 purl rounds).

The Topping (working decreases):

R27: k all.

For comfort, you can place stitch markers before the 1st and after the 12th, 24th, 36th and 48th stitches: this is where you will work the decreases.

R28: *sl1, k1, psso, k10*, repeat around.

R29: *sl1 wyib , k10*, repeat around.

R30: *sl1, k1, psso, k9*, repeat around.

R31: *sl1 wyib, k9*, repeat around.

R32: *sl1, k1, psso, k8*, repeat around.

R33: *sl1 wyib, k8*, repeat around.

R34: *sl1, k1, psso, k7*, repeat around.

R35: *sl1 wyib, k7*, repeat around.

R36: *sl1, k1, psso, k6*, repeat around.

R37: *sl1 wyib, k6*, repeat around.

R38: *sl1, k1, psso, k5*, repeat around.

R39: *sl1 wyib, k5*, repeat around.

R40: *sl1, k1, psso, k4*, repeat around.

R41: *sl1 wyib, k4*, repeat around.

R42: *sl1, k1, psso, k3*, repeat around.

R43: *sl1 wyib, k3*, repeat around.

R44: *sl1, k1, psso, k2*, repeat around.

R45: *sl1 wyib, k2*, repeat around.

R46: *sl1, k1, psso, k1*, repeat around.

R47: *sl1 wyib, k1*, repeat around.

R48: *sl1, k1, psso*, repeat around.

Cut thread leaving a 15cm tail, pull it through the remaining 5 sts and tie securely on the inside.

The Cherry:

If you wish, top your cupcake with a pompom!

Add a wish-you-well card and give out!

Creative Commons License
Little Cupcake Newborn Hat by Iryna Klionava is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 3.0 Unported License.

DK Ume

Ta-daam! As promised, I have test-knitted Ume in DK yarn and, to tell you the truth, I like it even more! I prefer hats that have some volume, so DK is my first choice for this pattern.

The yarn I have used is wonderful but tricky: 100% Wensleydale, the shiniest sheep wool in existence, but also a fibre that has almost no spring. I have cheated it into shape by knitting the last 10 rows on 3mm needles as tightly as I could and adding a rubber thread on the cast-off row. If you use a different, springier yarn, this won’t be a problem: just follow the pattern up to the end.

A couple of pictures to tempt you!

Image

Side view

Image

Back view

And now – grab your needles!

Do you like plums?

September is almost a memory now and early mornings are getting chilly. Time to get out your needles and knit something to keep you warm!

How about Ume?

This cute little set is perfect for those transitional weeks when the weather changes from winter to summer and back within a couple of hours. A lace pattern worked in a sport weight yarn makes light (and easily “pocket-able”) accessories.

Ready? Let’s start!

What you’ll need:

Yarn: sport weight for a close-fitting beret or dk weight if you prefer a slouchier look. You will use 3 balls of 50 grams for the beret and the gloves or about 50 (60 for dk) grams for the beret alone.

The yarn I used for the sport weight sample is Idéal by Bergère de France (40% Worsted Wool, 30% Acrylic, 30% Polyamide, 50g/125 m/136 yds, 12 wpi). The yarn used for the dk sample is DK by Wensleydale Longwool Sheepshop (100% Wool, 100g/235 m/257 yds, 11 wpi).

Needles: a set of double-pointed (sock) needles, 4 or 5, as you like, or a cable needle if you prefer the magic loop method. Use 3mm needles for sport weight yarn and 3.5mm needles for dk yarn.

The beret is worked in the round, top to bottom. The gloves are worked in the round starting with the cuff. Both the beret and the gloves have a 1×1 ribbing at the edge, which allows them to stretch considerably to fit almost any head and hands.

Gauge: for sport weight yarn: 10×10 cm/4×4 in = 28 sts and 36 rows in st st, on 3mm needles. For dk weight yarn: 10×10 cm/4×4 in = 24 sts and 28 rows in st st, on 3.5mm needles.

Abbreviations:

  • k – knit
  • p – purl
  • yf – yarn forward (or yarn over if you prefer)
  • p tbl – purl through the back loop
  • k2tog – knit 2 sts together
  • make 7 – make 7 sts from 1 st as follows: k1, yf, k1, yf, k1, yf, k1
  • skpo – sl1 as to knit, k1, pass sl st over
  • sk2po – sl1 as to knit, k2tog, pass sl st over
  • sl1 wyib – sl 1st with yarn in back

All right, here we go!

Beret

Cast on 10 sts, join taking care not to twist. Mark the beginning of the round with a stitch marker, a paper clip, a safety pin or anything you can think of.

Rnd 1: *k1, yf*, rep. around.

Rnd 2: *k1, p1, yf*, rep. around.

Rnd 3: *k1, p1, p1tbl, make 7, p1, p1tbl*, rep. around.

Rnd 4: *k1, p2, k7, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 5: *yf, k1, yf, p2, k7, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 6: *k3, p2, k7, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 7: *k1, yf, k1, yf, k1, p2, k7, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 8: *k5, p2, k7, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 9: *k2, yf, k1, yf, k2, p2, skpo, k3, k2tog, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 10: *k7, p2, skpo, k1, k2tog, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 11: *k3, yf, k1, yf, k3, p2, yf, sk2po, yf, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 12: *k4, sl1 wyib, k4, p2, k1, yf, k1, yf, k1, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 13: *k9, p2, k1, p1, make 7, p1, k1, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 14-16: *k9, p2, k1, p1, k7, p1, k1, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 17: *k1, yf, skpo, k3, k2tog, yf, k1, p2, k1, p1, k7, p1, k1, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 18: *k9, p2, k1, p1, k7, p1, k1, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 19: *k2, yf, skpo, k1, k2tog, yf, k2, p2, k1, p1, skpo, k3, k2tog, p1, k1, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 20: *k9, p2, k1, p1, skpo, k1, k2tog, p1, k1, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 21: *k3, yf, sk2po, yf, k3, p2, k1, p1, yf, sk2po, yf, p1, k1, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 22: *k9, p2, k1, p1, k1, yf, k1, yf, k1, p1, k1, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 23: *k4, yf, k1, yf, k4, p2, (k1, p1)x2, make 7, (p1, k1)x2, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 24: *k5, sl1 wyib, k5, p2, (k1, p1)x2, k7, (p1, k1)x2, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 25: *k1, yf, skpo, k5, k2tog, yf, k1, p2, (k1, p1)x2, k7, (p1, k1)x2, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 26: *k11, p2, (k1, p1)x2, k7, (p1, k1)x2, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 27: *k2, yf, skpo, k3, k2tog, yf, k2, p2, (k1, p1)x2, k7, (p1, k1)x2, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 28: *k11, p2, (k1, p1)x2, k7, (p1, k1)x2, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 29: *k3, yf, skpo, k1, k2tog, yf, k3, p2, (k1, p1)x2, skpo, k3, k2tog, (p1, k1)x2, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 30: *k11, p2, (k1, p1)x2, skpo, k1, k2tog, (p1, k1)x2, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 31: *k4, yf, sk2po, yf, k4, p2, (k1, p1)x2, yf, sk2po, yf, (p1, k1)x2, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 32: *k11, p2, (k1, p1)x2, k1, yf, k1, yf, k1, (p1, k1)x2, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 33: *k5, yf, k1, yf, k5, p2, (k1, p1)x3, make 7, (p1, k1)x3, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 34: *k6, sl1 wyib, k6, p2, (k1, p1)x3, k7, (p1, k1)x3, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 35: *k1, yf, skpo, k7, k2tog, yf, k1, p2, (k1, p1)x3, k7, (p1, k1)x3, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 36: *k13, p2, (k1, p1)x3, k7, (p1, k1)x3, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 37: *k2, yf, skpo, k5, k2tog, yf, k2, p2, (k1, p1)x3, k7, (p1, k1)x3, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 38: *k13, p2, (k1, p1)x3, k7, (p1, k1)x3, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd39: *k3, yf, skpo, k3, k2tog, yf, k3, p2, (k1, p1)x3, skpo, k3, k2tog, (p1, k1)x3, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 40: *k13, p2, (k1, p1)x3, skpo, k1, k2tog, (p1, k1)x3, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 41: *k4, yf, skpo, k1, k2tog, yf, k4, p2, (k1, p1)x3, yf, sk2po, yf, (p1, k1)x3, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 42: *k13, p2, (k1, p1)x3, k1, yf, k1, yf, k1, (p1, k1)x3, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 43: *k5, yf, sk2po, yf, k5, p2, (k1, p1)x4, make 7, (p1, k1)x4, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 44: *k13, p2, (k1, p1)x4, k7, (p1, k1)x4, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 45: *k6, yf, k1, yf, k6, p2, (k1, p1)x4, k7, (p1, k1)x4, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 46: *k7, sl1 wyib, k7, p2, (k1, p1)x4, k7, (p1, k1)x4, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 47: *skpo, k11, k2tog, p2, (k1, p1)x4, k7, (p1, k1)x4, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 48: *skpo, k9, k2tog, p2, (k1, p1)x4, k7, (p1, k1)x4, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 49: *skpo, k7, k2tog, p2, (k1, p1)x4, skpo, k3, k2tog, (p1, k1)x4, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 50: *skpo, k5, k2tog, p2, (k1, p1)x4, skpo, k1, k2tog, (p1, k1)x4, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 51: *skpo, k3, k2tog, p2, (k1, p1)x4, sk2po, (p1, k1)x4, p2*, rep. around.

Rnd 52: *skpo, k1, k2tog, p2, (k1, p1)x9, p1*, rep. around.

Rnd 53: * sk2po, p2, (k1, p1)x9, p1*, rep. around.

Rnd 54-60: *k1, p2, (k1, p1)x9, p1*, rep. around.

Rnd 61: Cast off.

Finishing

Weave in yarn ends. Block before wearing.

Gloves

Left Glove

Cast on 46 sts, join taking care not to twist. Mark the beginning of the round.

Rnd 1-8: p2, k1, p2, (k1, p1)x3, k1, p2, k1, p2, (k1, p1)x14, k1.

Rnd 9: p2, make 7, p2, (k1, p1)x3, k1, p2, yf, k1, yf, p2, (k1, p1)x14, k1.

Rnd 10: p2, k7, p2, (k1, p1)x3, k1, p2, k3, p2, (k1, p1)x14, k1.

Rnd 11: p2, k7, p2, (k1, p1)x3, k1, p2, k1, yf, k1, yf, k1, p2, (k1, p1)x14, k1.

Rnd 12: p2, k7, p2, (k1, p1)x3, k1, p2, k5, p2, (k1, p1)x14, k1.

Rnd 13: p2, k7, p2, (k1, p1)x3, k1, p2, k2, yf, k1, yf, k2, p2, (k1, p1)x14, k1.

Rnd 14: p2, k7, p2, (k1, p1)x3, k1, p2, k7, p2, (k1, p1)x14, k1.

Rnd 15: p2, skpo, k3, k2tog, p2, (k1, p1)x3, k1, p2, k3, yf, k1, yf, k3, p2, (k1, p1)x14, k1.

Rnd 16: p2, skpo, k1, k2tog, p2, (k1, p1)x3, k1, p2, k4, sl1 wyib, k4, p2, (k1, p1)x14, k1.

Rnd 17: p2, yf, sk2po, yf, p2, (k1, p1)x3, k1, p2, k9, p2, (k1, p1)x14, k1.

Rnd 18: p2, k1, yf, k1, yf, k1, p2, (k1, p1)x3, k1, p2, k9, p2, (k1, p1)x14, k1.

Rnd 19: p2, k1, p1, make 7, p1, k1, p2, (k1, p1)x3, k1, p2, k9, p2, (k1, p1)x14, k1.

Rnd 20: p2, k1, p1, k7, p1, k1, p2, (k1, p1)x3, k1, p2, k9, p2, (k1, p1)x14, k1.

Rnd 21: p2, k1, p1, k7, p1, k1, p2, (k1, p1)x3, k1, p2, k1, yf, skpo, k3, k2tog, yf, k1, p2, (k1, p1)x14, k1.

Rnd 22: p2, k1, p1, k7, p1, k1, p2, (k1, p1)x3, k1, p2, k9, p2, (k1, p1)x14, k1.

Rnd 23: p2, k1, p1, k7, p1, k1, p2, (k1, p1)x3, k1, p2, k2, yf, skpo, k1, k2tog, yf, k2, p2, (k1, p1)x14, k1.

Rnd 24: p2, k1, p1, k7, p1, k1, p2, (k1, p1)x3, k1, p2, k9, p2, (k1, p1)x14, k1.

Rnd 25: p2, k1, p1, skpo, k3, k2tog, p1, k1, p2, (k1, p1)x3, k1, p2, k3, yf, sk2po, yf, k3, p2, (k1, p1)x14, k1.

Rnd 26: p2, k1, p1, skpo, k1, k2tog, p1, k1, p2, (k1, p1)x3, k1, p2, k9, p2, (k1, p1)x14, k1.

Rnd 27: p2, k1, p1, yf, sk2po, yf, p1, k1, p2, (k1, p1)x3, k1, p2, k4, yf, k1, yf, k4, p2, (k1, p1)x14, k1.

Rnd 28: p2, k1, p1, k1, yf, k1, yf, k1, p1, k1, p2, (k1, p1)x3, k1, p2, k5, sl1 wyib, k5, p2, (k1, p1)x14, k1.

Rnd 29: p2, (k1, p1)x2, make 7, (p1, k1)x2, p2, (k1, p1)x3, k1, p2, k1, yf, skpo, k5, k2tog, yf, k1, p2, (k1, p1)x14, k1.

Rnd 30: p2, (k1, p1)x2, k7, (p1, k1)x2, p2, (k1, p1)x3, k1, p2, k11, p2, (k1, p1)x14, k1.

Rnd 31: p2, (k1, p1)x2, k7, (p1, k1)x2, p2, (k1, p1)x3, k1, p2, k2, yf, skpo, k3, k2tog, yf, k2, p2, (k1, p1)x14, k1.

Rnd 32: p2, (k1, p1)x2, k7, (p1, k1)x2, p2, (k1, p1)x3, k1, p2, k11, p2, (k1, p1)x14, k1.

Rnd 33: Slip 19sts onto a safety pin, continue in the round; (k1, p1)x3, k1, p2, k3, yf, skpo, k1, k2tog, yf, k3, p2, (k1, p1)x14.

The round ends here, remove the stitch marker from its previous position and place it after the last stitch you have worked.

Rnd 34: k2tog, (p1, k1)x3, p2, k11, p2, (k1, p1)x14.

Rnd 35: k1, (p1, k1)x3, p2, k4, yf, sk2po, yf, k4, p2, (k1, p1)x14.

Rnd 36: k1, (p1, k1)x3, p2, k11, p2, (k1, p1)x14.

Rnd 37: k1, (p1, k1)x3, p2, k5, yf, k1, yf, k5, p2, (k1, p1)x14.

Rnd 38: k1, (p1, k1)x3, p2, k6, sl1 wyib, k6, p2, (k1, p1)x14.

Rnd 39: k1, (p1, k1)x3, p2, k1, yf, skpo, k7, k2tog, yf, k1, p2, (k1, p1)x14.

Rnd 40: k1, (p1, k1)x3, p2, k13, p2, (k1, p1)x14.

Rnd 41: k1, (p1, k1)x3, p2, k2, yf, skpo, k5, k2tog, yf, k2, p2, (k1, p1)x14.

Rnd 42: k1, (p1, k1)x3, p2, k13, p2, (k1, p1)x14.

Rnd 43: k1, (p1, k1)x3, p2, k3, yf, skpo, k3, k2tog, yf, k3, p2, (k1, p1)x14.

Rnd 44: k1, (p1, k1)x3, p2, k13, p2, (k1, p1)x14.

Rnd 45: k1, (p1, k1)x3, p2, k4, yf, skpo, k1, k2tog, yf, k4, p2, (k1, p1)x14.

Rnd 46: k1, (p1, k1)x3, p2, k13, p2, (k1, p1)x14.

Rnd 47: k1, (p1, k1)x3, p2, k5, yf, sk2po, yf, k5, p2, (k1, p1)x14.

Rnd 48: k1, (p1, k1)x3, p2, k13, p2, (k1, p1)x14.

Rnd 49: k1, (p1, k1)x3, p2, k6, yf, k1, yf, k6, p2, (k1, p1)x14.

Rnd 50: k1, (p1, k1)x3, p2, k7, sl1 wyib, k7, p2, (k1, p1)x14.

Rnd 51: k1, (p1, k1)x3, p2, skpo, k11, k2tog, p2, (k1, p1)x14.

Rnd 52: k1, (p1, k1)x3, p2, skpo, k9, k2tog, p2, (k1, p1)x14.

Rnd 53: k1, (p1, k1)x3, p2, skpo, k7, k2tog, p2, (k1, p1)x14.

Rnd 54: k1, (p1, k1)x3, p2, skpo, k5, k2tog, p2, (k1, p1)x14.

Rnd 55: k1, (p1, k1)x3, p2, skpo, k3, k2tog, p2, (k1, p1)x14.

Rnd 56: k1, (p1, k1)x3, p2, skpo, k1, k2tog, p2, (k1, p1)x14.

Rnd 57: k1, (p1, k1)x3, p2, sk2po, p2, (k1, p1)x14.

Rnd 58-59: k1, (p1, k1)x3, p2, k1, p2, (k1, p1)x14.

Rnd 60: Cast off.

Thumb

Distribute the 19 sts of the thumb on 2 dpns (Needles 1 and 2). With a third dpn (Needle 3), pick up 5 sts along the opening. Begin on Needle 1 (Needle 3 for the right glove).

Rnd 1: p2, (k1, p1)x2, k7, (p1, k1)x2, p2, k1tbl, p1tbl, k1tbl, p1tbl, k1tbl.

Rnd 2: p2, (k1, p1)x2, k7, (p1, k1)x2, p1, (p1, k1)x3.

Rnd 3: p2, (k1, p1)x2, skpo, k3, k2tog, (p1, k1)x2, p1, (p1, k1)x3.

Rnd 4: p2, (k1, p1)x2, skpo, k1, k2tog, (p1, k1)x2, p1, (p1, k1)x3.

Rnd 5: p2, (k1, p1)x2, sk2po, (p1, k1)x2, p1, (p1, k1)x3.

Rnd 6-14: p2, (k1, p1)x5, (p1, k1)x3.

Rnd 15: Cast off.

Finishing

Weave in yarn ends. Block before wearing.

Right Glove

The right glove is a mirror reflection of the left glove. To knit the right glove, read every round backwards.

Lace chart

Creative Commons License
Ume set by Iryna Klionava is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 3.0 Unported License.

Marigold Pincushion

Need a stash-reducing project? A cute last-minute gift? A small knit to give you an instant gratification? Use leftover yarn to make this lovely little pincushion!

You will need:

Yarn: circa 100 m of sport weight yarn* in colours A and B

A set of 4(5) dpn’s, metric size 2.5mm

A tapestry needle

A button

* Use any yarn and go down one size from the needle size recommended on the yarn tag.

Abbreviations:

k – knit

p – purl

YO – yarn over

k tbl – knit through the back loop

k3tog – knit 3 stitches together

sl 1, k1, psso – slip 1 stitch as to knit, knit 1 stitch, pass slipped stitch over

CO – cast on

rep – repeat

sts – stitches

rnd – round

CO 7, join in the round taking care not to twist.

Rnd 1: *YO, k1*, rep around (=14 sts).

Rnd 2: *k1tbl, k1*, rep around.

Rnd 3: *YO, k2*, rep around (=21 sts).

Rnd 4: *k1tbl, k2*, rep around.

Rnd 5: *YO, k3*, rep around (=28 sts).

Carry the green yarn loosely at the back of your work to avoid deforming the surface.

Rnd 6: *k1tbl, k3*, rep around.

Rnd 7: *YO, k1, YO, k3*, rep around (=42 sts).

Rnd 8: *k1tbl, k1, k1tbl, k3*, rep around.

Rnd 9: *YO, k3, YO, k3tog*, rep around (=42 sts).

Rnd 10: *k1tbl, k3, k1tbl, k1*, rep around.

Rnd 11: *YO, k5, YO, k1*, rep around (=56 sts).

Rnd 12: *k1tbl, k5, k1tbl, k1*, rep around.

Rnd 13: p all (= 56 sts).

Rnd 14: k all.

Rnd 15: p all.

Rnd 16: k all.

Rnd 17: *sl 1, k1, psso, k6*, rep around (=49 sts).

Rnd 18: *sl 1, k1, psso, k5*, rep around (=42 sts).

Rnd 19: *sl 1, k1, psso, k4*, rep around (=35 sts).

Rnd 20: *sl 1, k1, psso, k3*, rep around (=28 sts).

Rnd 21: *sl 1, k1, psso, k2*, rep around (=21 sts).

Rnd 22: *sl 1, k1, psso, k1*, rep around (=14 sts).

Fill the pincushion with wool, cotton or synthetic fiber before you continue.

Rnd 23: *sl 1, k1, psso*, rep around (=7 sts).

Cut thread, pull the tail through the remaining sts, then use it to sew on the button.

Tip: Manage yarn tails as they appear, you won’t be able to fix them when the pincushion is ready.